Flooring Calculator

Measure the floor area, add the waste percentage, then divide by the product coverage per box and round up. For example, a 12 ft x 14 ft room is 168 sq ft. With 10% waste, order for 184.8 sq ft; at 22 sq ft per box, that rounds up to 9 boxes.

Measure the length and width of the room, then multiply them. For L-shaped rooms or multiple rooms, split the floor into rectangles and add the areas together. For irregular rooms, use the Square Footage Calculator first, then enter the total area here.

Divide the floor area with waste added by the coverage listed on one box, then round up to a whole box. Most boxes cover about 20-25 sq ft. Many installers keep an extra box for repairs or dye-lot matching, but the main box count should come from the actual coverage label.

Laminate uses a fiberboard core with a printed wear layer. Vinyl plank (LVP) is synthetic and handles water better, so it is often used in kitchens, baths, and basements. Solid hardwood is milled wood and can be refinished, but it reacts to moisture. Engineered hardwood has a real wood veneer over a plywood-style core, which makes it more stable in some rooms.

A common starting point is 10% for straight-laid laminate or LVP, about 12% for engineered hardwood, and about 15% for solid hardwood. Diagonal layouts, small closets, angled walls, and first-time installs often need more. Check the product instructions and installer guidance before ordering.

It depends on the flooring product and subfloor. Laminate often uses foam or felt underlayment, and concrete subfloors may need a moisture barrier. Many LVP products already have attached pad. Some floating engineered floors need underlayment, while nailed hardwood often does not. Check the manufacturer guide before turning the underlayment roll estimate on.

Most flooring boxes cover about 20-25 sq ft, but the exact number depends on the product. Laminate and solid hardwood are often near 22 sq ft per box, LVP near 24 sq ft, and engineered hardwood near 25 sq ft. Always use the coverage printed on the box when it differs from the default.

Solid hardwood is one piece of wood and can usually be sanded and refinished more times. Engineered hardwood has a real wood veneer over a layered core, so it is usually more stable with humidity changes and can work in more installation settings. Check the product instructions for subfloor, acclimation, and installation limits.

Plan on rough ranges, not guarantees. A simple click-lock laminate or LVP room may take a DIY installer a day or weekend, while nailed hardwood or glue-down work can take longer. Subfloor prep, old flooring removal, baseboards, door trimming, room shape, and installer experience can change the schedule a lot.

Durability depends on the room and the kind of wear. LVP is often strong for water-prone rooms and busy homes. Laminate can resist scratches well but does not like moisture. Solid hardwood can last for decades because it can be refinished, but it needs more care around water and humidity. Match the material to pets, kids, moisture, traffic, and whether refinishing matters.

Click-lock laminate, LVP, and some engineered hardwood products are common DIY projects for careful homeowners. Solid hardwood, glue-down products, uneven subfloors, stairs, and transitions are harder. Read the manufacturer instructions first because warranty coverage often depends on the approved installation method.

Yes. Pick Metric in the unit selector and the inputs switch to meters and square meters. Material defaults, result areas, and underlayment roll coverage follow the active unit system. Your unit preference is saved in the browser for the next time you use the site.